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The Sensitive Foodie: April 2013

Tuesday 30 April 2013

Milk in wine - surely not?


The more I find out about food and drink, the more I’m amazed at exactly what is contained in the every day products we so readily consume. One of the best things about have a food intolerance is gaining knowledge – you need to be informed of exactly what is used to create your favourite dish.
I am constantly amazed, and often dismayed, to find milk or some form of dairy in the most seemingly innocuous products. Crisps are a regular offender (chilli and lime flavor – where’s the need for milk in that?), as is any form of ready meal or processed food product. It hides in different forms – skimmed milk powder is easy to recognise, but then there’s whey, casein and lactose (check out medicines for that one!). But it doesn’t stop there; whey appears in many forms, including gelling and stabilising agents like lactalbumin and lactoglobulin. And as for casein, the milk protein that is my problem, it appears in a multitude of guises as an emulsifier and binding agent (gets processed foods to stick together!). So watch out for anything that has ‘caseinate’ in it, such as sodium caseinate or calcium caseinate, casein hydrolysate (that just doesn’t sound good full stop!) or paracasein.
My daughter became a vegetarian at the age of 12 after finding out that marshmallows contained gelatin – or rather that gelatin was made from crushed animal bones. She was flabbergasted and has never eaten a piece of meat since (and she was a real steak and roast meat eater before). It was a real ‘OMG’ moment for her. Mine came after I read an article about wine; it often contains some form of milk! 
I love wine, but it really does not love me!! Having a yeast intolerance as well as milk has meant that wine has been a real no no over the last few years. Previously, if I’ve had wine to drink, I was so ill the next day. Spirits just don’t effect me in the same way therefore I had always assumed it was the yeast. Now I realise it's a double allergen whammy; it explains so much!!!
Apparently, a multitude of odd products are used by wine makers, and brewers, either directly to add flavour, or in the filtration process. These include casein, egg white, honey, sea shells and isinglass (fish bladders) to name a few. Casein is often used for fining, a process that removes particles and soluble substances that achieves clarity quicker and more economically than leaving wine to mature over months, or years.
I can’t believe I didn’t know this before; I even had a previous boyfriend with a degree in wine making, but I only remember him going on about sulphates and tanins. Oh, and drinking lots of wine……
So what to do? One option is to not drink wine! But, if you don’t have a yeast intolerance, then why? There are vegan wines available on the market; check out websites such as www.barnivore.com or www.vegans.frommars.org that provide pretty comprehensive lists. The wines listed will not contain any animal product, covering a huge range of allergens, which is really handy!
The government is making it easier too – at least in the UK. All wines with a 2012 vintage onwards must state on the label whether milk or egg derivatives are used in the manufacturing process, along with sulphur dioxide levels greater than 10mg/litre.  This will make it easier to buy wines at the supermarket, but not sure how a snobby sommelier will react!!
Thankfully, for me there are always spirits to enjoy, although not all of these products are unadulterated so care is still needed! And of course, I have to say, any alcohol must be consumed sensibly and in moderation. Hangovers cannot be blamed on additives alone!


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Saturday 13 April 2013

Scones - dairy free and delicious!

As I'm sure I've mentioned, being intolerant to all forms of dairy means I can't eat one of my favourite things - cake. Having a sweet tooth, it's something I look forward to, and relish, and yet unless I bake my own, it's something I cannot eat when I'm out and about.
However, to my delight, one of the things I have noticed since coming back to the UK, is that there are an increasing number of cafes that serve a dairy free option, which is most exciting (not so good for my waistline!!). But it really depends upon where I am as to whether there's a suitable sweet bite. Luckily for me, I live close to Brighton, a small city on the south coast of England that has a reputation as being a little alternative. There are now a number of cafes serving up vegan cake, so not only do I get a choice of cafe, but also a choice of cake!
There's also a fantastic whole food store, Infinity Foods, that not only sells fresh veg and dried products, but bread, cakes and vegan pizza! Recently, I treated myself to a giant dairy free scone. I have to admit I was a little dubious that it would taste as good as a traditional butter laden one, but that soon changed to delight - it was light and packed full of yummy scone flavour. 
I have a bit of a bad scone making history (my children regale with delight the time I used bicarbonate of soda instead of baking powder so the scones tasted of wee!!!), but was inspired to attempt to make my own again - both dairy and wee free!!!
One of the key things about a good scone is the lightness of texture, so I use self-raising flour and add some baking powder for extra lift. A delicate touch seems to be important too when forming and handling the dough; it seems to me that using dairy free margarine as opposed to butter is an advantage here as it is not quite as heavy.
Whenever I make individual scones, something seems to happen in the cutting process and the lightness and air just vanishes in a puff. Fumbling fingers are not good in this scenario. So to be on the safe side, I've found it best to make a single batch scone i.e: form the dough into one single round, half cut through to create sections and bake as a whole, cutting it into individual portions later when cooled. 
So here is my version of non-dairy scone suitable for afternoon tea - serve with dairy free spread and lashings of your favourite jam. 
Dairy-free scones
225g self-raising flour
pinch of salt
t
1 teaspoon baking powder
75g non-dairy margarine
25g caster sugar
75g raisins (if you want fruit scones0
100mls soya milk
teaspoon of granulated sugar
First, heat your oven to 220oC. Place the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl then add the margarine and rub in to make fine bread crumbs. Alternatively, you can pulse in a blender to get the same texture. Stir in the sugar and raisins, then add the milk a little at a time until you form a soft, kneadable dough. Knead gentle for a minute or so until everything seems combined, then form into a single batch. Using a large knife, cut through the dough half way, first down the centre, then at the sides to create 6 sections. Sprinkle with the granulated sugar and brush with a little soya milk and bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes (if you're not vegan then brush with egg as it's a better glaze - soya milk doesn't brown as well). Once cooked, cool on a wire tray, then cut into individual portions when you're ready for afternoon tea! 


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Friday 12 April 2013

The mighty aubergine

During my time in India, I started a love affair - with the fabulously tasty aubergine! There was so much more to this vegetable than I had ever imagined, with an ancient history, multiple varieties and different guises, it was easy to be enticed into a whole new realm of culinary possibilities.
I was surprised to discover  that, botanically, aubergine is actually a fruit; a berry to be precise. Before my departure to sunny climes, I thought aubergines were only large, oval, deep purple and went bitter and mushy when cooked. I discovered that there are around 2000 different varieties of aubergine in India alone, ranging from tiny to giant (1kg in weight), oval, round, long, thin, bulbous, prickly and in many hues – deep purple, red-purple, green, yellow, white, striped and even orange.
Native to India, aubergines are known by the generic name of brinjal, although this varies from area to area depending on the local language. In Hindi, it's 'baingan' which literally translated means "no exceptional qualities" which is rather sad!! In the US and Australia, aubergines are eggplants; some early 18th century versions were white and egg shaped, hence the name. Western Europe tends to use aubergine, apparently coming from Arabic (useful information for your next pub quiz!)
Aubergine is a key ingredient in many Indian dishes.  Highly nutritious, it’s known as both “poor man’s meat” and the “king of vegetables” possibly from a Tamil folk tale (it has a crown!).  So adaptable, it can be cooked in many ways – baked, roasted, bbq’ed, fried, pickled, used for dips and chutneys and even soufflé.  And of course, aubergine pops up in all sorts of cuisine from around the world - Middle Eastern, Arabic, Mediterranean and Asian. 
Aubergine have a high water content, and are excellent source of potassium and other key nutrients such as calcium, folic acid, vitamin C and other anti-oxidants.  Unfortunately, they absorb oil and so become high calorie if fried, but also highly delicious, delectably melting in the mouth.
Its a great vegetable for use in a plant based wholefood diet, as when cooked it produces a delicious creamy texture that can provide additional richness to a dairy free dish. One of my favourite is Baba ghanoush, aubergine dip, a rich and flavoursome dish - I made this the other day for some friends and it disappeared off the table in a flash!  Traditionally, olive oil is added, but I find that baking the aubergine in the oven first until cooked creates enough soft, rich flesh that oil just isn't needed. Beware with the amount of garlic you use though - the flesh absorbs other flavours so well that it can be pretty strong without meaning to - maybe not one to prepare for a romantic date!!
I have a number of delicious, aubergine dishes to share, including a great brinjal curry my maid taught me and an Italian inspired stuffed aubergine roll, but for now, here's healthy, low fat baba ghanoush. Enjoy with toasted flatbread, or my chickpea dippers http://foodiesensitive.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/no-dairy-no-calcium.html
Tantilisingly creamy baba ghanoush
1 large aubergine
1 tablespoon tahini
1 -2 cloves garlic, crushed
juice 1/2 lemon
salt to taste
To get a smoky flavour, first place your aubergine directly onto a gas flame (if you have a gas hob) and scorch the skin. Once slightly toasted, wrap in tin foil and roast in the oven for 30 minutes or so at 200 degrees C until soft to touch. Remove from the oven and leave to cool - don't open the tin foil yet. Once cool, carefully unwrap the aubergine, pouring the juices that will have collected in the foil into a blender. Cut open and scoop out the cooked flesh, leaving behind the tougher skin, and place in blender with the juice. Add the remaining ingredients and blitz until combined and really smooth. Check for seasoning, adding more salt and a little black pepper if required, and more lemon juice if it's not quite tangy enough. Share with others if you dare, or indulge by yourself!!


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Thursday 11 April 2013

Two soups, dairy free!

Soup really is a "souper" food (just couldn't' resist!). It's warming, comforting, tasty and convenient and can be packed full of nutrients and goodies as all the veg and cooking fluid gets mixed up in one, ensuring many of the vitamins and minerals leached out during cooking are available for consumption.
What really annoys me about soup, though, is the amount of dairy products recipes or ready made soups contain. Often the most innocuous, simple soups found on shelves contain some form of dairy, even if it's just dried milk powder. Even my favourite Cranks recipe book includes milk and butter as a standard in many of their recipes. Of course if you're making it yourself, it's easy enough to substitute oil for butter etc but it's really not necessary in the first place.  Soup is definitely healthier, and I think yummier, without it.
Take for example the humble leek and potato soup - tasty and sumptuous in it's simplicity. The potato content creates the thick, creamy texture, seasoning enhances the underlying leekiness. So why do so many recipes include milk as a key ingredient? If cooked and blended correctly, this soup has a lovely smooth creaminess about it whilst being dairy free.
The same goes for watercress soup, another one of my favourite yummy lunches. Packed full of flavour and a serious amount of vitamin and mineral goodness, watercress soup, made with a little potato and some good veg stock, has a fabulous deep, creamy texture without needing a drop of cream or milk.
Of course, making a 'cream of' soup without any dairy can be a little more challenging: soya cream can be used but it carries quite a strong, sweet flavour that changes the overall taste. An alternative is cashew nut; a couple of handfuls can be cooked in the soup with the rest of the ingredients and blended in at the end. This creates a real thick richness to the soup, but also increases the fat content and cost, which is why I tend to stick to the humble spud!
Enough of the soap box and on with the recipes - here are two soups, dairy free and simply yummy to the core. Enjoy!
Leek and potato soup
1 small onion finely chopped
2-3 leeks (depending on size), well washed and chopped
1 carrot diced
1 medium potato
1 tsp vegetable oil
veg stock
salt and pepper
Heat the oil gently in that pan and add the onion and leek, stirring often to make sure it doesn't burn. Add a little of the veg stock if things start sticking. After a few minutes, add the carrot and potato, lower the heat and put on the lid, leaving it to simmer for 5 minutes or so to allow the veg to soften. Check once or twice for burning/sticky. Pour in the stock, enough to cover the veg and bring to the boil. Once bubbling, reduce the heat again, pop on the lid and leave to simmer until everything is soft. Season and blitz until smooth, adding more veg stock to get the thickness you desire. Reheat to simmer, season again if necessary and serve.
Yummy watercress soup
My family love this soup, and their friends too, even though it's green! If you want extra green and hearty soup, include a few chard leaves as well. It becomes even richer and earthy!
1 small onion finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 medium potato, diced
1 teaspoon veg oil
veg stock
few chard leaves chopped (optional)
1 bag/large bunch watercress, rinsed
salt and pepper
Heat the oil in a saucepan and saute the onion for a few minutes making sure it doesn't brown. Add the garlic and potato and continue to saute, stirring all the time. Add the veg stock to cover the potatoes and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 15 minutes or so until the potato is cooked. If using the chard, chop the stems and add to the pan, simmering for a few minutes, then add the chopped chard leaves and watercress. Pour in some more stock to just cover the greenery, mix well and simmer for a few minutes until the leaves have wilted. Turn off the heat and leave to cool for a few minutes, then blitz until smooth, seasoning to taste as you go. Enjoy!


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Friday 5 April 2013

Channa masala - dairy free and delicious!

One of the main benefits of living in India was of course picking up top tips on how to make a good curry. Before we left for Bangalore, I had eaten channa masala from an English curry house, but it was buttery and the spices harsh. I've since realised that harsh spices are uncooked ones, and a good channa masala can be dairy free and gorgeous!
In case you're wondering, channa is my old favourite, chickpeas! Known a garbanzo beans in the US, this fabulous pulse is so worth incorporating into your diet wherever you can as they are incredible little nuggets of nutrition. For a start, they are a great source of protein, not complete as the essential amino acid histadine is missing, but when combined with wholegrain rice or flour pack a serious protein punch. On top of that, they have loads of fibre, so not only help to keep you full for long, but can aid in reducing cholesterol levels as well as promote a healthy gut.
Chickpeas are also a great source of folate, particularly important for women of child-bearing age, iron, phosphorous, zinc and manganese, which is essential for energy production in the body. They are low in fat but still have essential fatty acids and contain other nutritional necessities such as potassium, vitamin C, calcium and other B vitamins to name a few.
From a financial point of view, chickpeas are also pretty cheap, certainly as a protein source (much more affordable than meat!!).  Canned are more convenient than dried, although this convenience carries a cost; financially they are more, environmentally there's the can and nutritionally up to 45% of the folate is lost in the canning process. But then sometimes there's just not time to soak and cook, even with a pressure cooker at hand!!!
My channa masala recipe is not really traditional, as it contains more than just chickpeas, tomatoes and spices. As my family will always tell you, I like to add in some extra veg in everything, especially something green!!
So top tips for cooking this channa masala are:
* blend the onion, garlic and ginger into a puree before cooking - this gives a smooth sauce and reduces the amount of oil you need and reduces the chance of burning
* add the spices once the onion mix is cooked, stirring well for a minute to help them cook
* add the chickpeas near the end so they don't over cook - the flavour is in the sauce, not the pulses
* use your nose as well as your tongue to tell when the spices are cooked - the pungent, harsh aroma softens when cooked.
So that's about it - here's the recipe. The spice amounts are a guideline only - use less or more depending on how flavoursome you like your curry. Serve with brown basmati rice or wholemeal roti and enjoy!
Channa masala
1 onion roughly cut
3 cloves garlic
1-2 inch cube fresh ginger
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 chilli diced - red or green, its up to you
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
salt
2 carrots cut into small chunks
400g tin chopped tomatoes
400g tin chickpeas or 1 cup soaked and cooked
spinach or chard, chopped
Put the onion, garlic and ginger into a food processor and whizz until finely chopped/pureed. It becomes pretty smooth and watery. Then heat the oil or water in a pan and add the whole seeds, stirring occasionally. Once they start to pop, reduce the heat and add the onion mixture, stirring constantly so it doesn't burn. Cook for about five minutes until the fluid starts to reduce, then stir in the other ground spices and salt (I use about 1/2 teaspoon) and cook for a minute or so, stirring constantly. Add the chilli and carrot, covering them with the mixture, then pour in the tinned tomatoes, mixing well, adding a little water to wash out the tin. Your mixture should be a thick stew, not too watery but not too dry. Once boiling, reduce the heat and leave to simmer for 20 minutes or so. Taste to check the flavour and if the harshness has gone, add the chickpeas and cook for 5 minutes, then add the chard or spinach and cook for a couple of minutes more. The curry should now taste rich and delicious, so serve it up and enjoy!


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Monday 1 April 2013

Food allergy research - will it help?

Manchester University have announced the launch of a massive research project about food allergies. They state that food allergy detection and management is thwarted by lack of evidence regarding prevention of or protection against food allergies - http://www.manchester.ac.uk/aboutus/news/display/?id=9743
On the face of it, this is great, particularly their focus on food manufacturing processes to prevent cross contamination and to promote clearer food labelling. For those with severe, life threatening allergies this will definitely make life easier, and safer.
It can take so long to examine the small print on packaging - some of it so tiny it's almost impossible to read! And then there are the warning labels that just seem to be having a laugh - the tuna tin that warns it contains fish. Or peanut butter - contains peanuts!! Mind you, I watched Hungry for Change recently, a film about the food and diet industry (http://www.hungryforchange.tv), where it talked about a blueberry and pomegranate breakfast cereal which contained neither blueberries or pomegranate, so I guess you can never be too sure!
Will this study really tackle the issues surrounding food allergy? There is a list of well known food products that are allergens - milk, eggs, wheat, peanuts, shellfish to name a few. For those with food intolerance the list is seemingly endless; in an inflamed state, it would seem that the body can develop issues with any food stuff (my latest one seems to be lentils - how can that be???.) Manufacturers seem to add elements of many of these products into their food products. Milk or one of it's derivatives appears in the most unexpected places (sweet chilli crisps??).
For me, the underlying issue comes back down to food processing and how we prepare and eat our daily intake. Processed food, which is really what this project is about, is generally devoid of nourishment and full on sugar, fat and profit. Whilst we continue to fill our bodies with poor quality fuel, underlying sensitivities and intolerances will continue as the body battles to keep clearing out toxins, constantly playing catch up to promote wellness.
Maybe Manchester University should focus their research on the benefits and healing properties of a wholefood, plant based diet rather than continuing the status quo with food manufacturers. Not sure where the funding would come from then, though - carrots just don't bring in the big bucks!! It will be interesting to see what "safe allergen threshold" are, what conclusions are made in three years time. In the meantime I'm going to minimise my processed food and keep to the fresh stuff - don't need my reading glasses for that!

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